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Towns and Villlges Around Oaxaca:
Tlacochahuaya Little Town Boasts Big Flavor
True, the name is hard to pronounce, difficult to memorize, and stressful to spell, but Tlacochahuaya may well turn out to be the kind of spot you want to visit in Oaxaca. At a distance of just over 12 miles from Oaxaca City, the little village of San Jeronimo Tlacochahuaya ( sahn he-RO-nee-mo tlah-ko-chah-WAH-yah ) is set in the heart of the lush central Tlacolula valley with a population of just over 2,000. It was founded in pre-Hispanic times by the Zapotec Cochinahuala, "he who fights by night," and its citizens remain loyal to the language inherited from the ancient Zapotec settlers of the region. Agriculture has long been the mainstay of this population, and cultivation of the fields, from planting to harvesting, still depends on intense manual labor. Corn, beans, a variety of chilis, garlic, alfalfa, both green and red tomatoes, cumin and flowers are plentiful in Tlacochahuaya, sheltered by dramatic hills and great mountains.
The village square, as in most Mexican towns, is the focal point of religious, administrative and social activities and this one is dominated by the 16th century Church of San Jeronimo (patron saint of Tlacochahuaya), erected over a pre-Hispanic temple, as is the church in Mitla.
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Imposing in its solitude, the lovely church seems to slumber in the remote past with its pre-Hispanic relics. Unique 16th century frescoes painted by the indigenous population, splendid retables flanked by sculptures and an altarpiece honoring the image of San Jeronimo make an immediate and lasting impression. Sharply contrasting with the rich colors of the interior are the Spartan living quarters once occupied by missionary friars who fortified their souls through prayer and supported their bodies with a meager diet of dried fish and herbs, except perhaps on special occasions.
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And special occasions are more frequent than one might think in the village the Zapotecs once called Zaani. There are innumerable traditional festivities, such as the celebrations that mark the feast day of San Jeronimo, a fiesta that stretches over five days and includes calendas, fireworks, music, dances, sport competitions, games and lots and lots of food and fun. You might very well hear wedding bells ringing when you chance upon Tlacochahuaya or the sounds of the magnificent 16th-century French organ, only occasionally played by guest musicians. It is hard to imagine a more perfect setting for a traditional wedding than the beautiful church, frescoed with cherubs and floral designs, sparkling with candle lights and enhanced by fresh flowers. After all, weddings have a historical meaning for the village. When this 16th-century French organ ( restored in 1991 by Susan Tattershall ), reverberates throughout Tlacochahuaya, it brings to mind the long ago day when Natipa, heir to the throne of Zaachila, the Zapotec capital, married Guielace, second daughter of Tiboot, the village chieftain.
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In those days, with the dust of the Conquest still floating over Oaxaca, guests took exception to the presence of Spaniards invited to the wedding and started a disturbance that soon got out of hand. Some historians hold that the bride and groom were killed during the ensuing fight. Others claim that Natipa and Guielace died of overindulgence in food and drink: a possibility that is not to be ruled out considering the generous quantity of food served at local weddings and fiestas.
History and legend often intermingle, and time has added a romantic sheen to the story of Natipa and Guielace. In keeping with ancient customs, contributions of food and beverages are made by wedding guests, who receive matching offerings when hosting similar events.
So, days ahead of the wedding and until the beautiful sun clock of Tlacochahuaya signals the time when the wedding bells of San Jeronimo are due to ring, village cooks will busily be engaged in preparing the festive menu, drawing on the rich traditional cuisines of Oaxaca.
Although there are no tourist services such as restaurants or hotels in Tlacochahuaya, part of the tremendous culinary affluence of Oaxaca can be traced back to this little town that boasts big flavor. Typically, family meals will show off what can be done with simple fare and will surely feature a delicious mole in one of its many variations, as well as regional dishes based on cherished family recipes which, when called for by an occasion like a wedding can be enriched by any number of special ingredients.
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Itinerary Suggestions: Visit Mitla and Yagul archeological sites, the villages of Tlacochahuaya and Tlacola, and the weaving village of Teotitlan del Valle. Oaxaca Tours provides private car & driver services to visit archeological sites and villages in the central valleys of Oaxaca.
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