Oaxaca
STONE: ONYX and VOLCANIC
One of the city of Oaxaca's most handsome and notable features is the large number of colonial and 19th century buildings constructed of andesite, volcanic green stone blocks, inspiring the affectionate nickname "Corazón de Piedra Verde" (heart of green stone). A light jade green when dry and in sunlight, the stone turns into moss color and texture in the rain. Oaxaca is the only region of Mexico exalting in this stone, used here even to pave streets. From the earliest colonial days, it distinguished Oaxaca's architecture from that of Mexico, built of red tezontle, and the orange and delicate pink stone of Guanajuato and Zacatecas. The greenest of the beautiful Oaxaca stone comes from Magdalena Etla, where green and other colors of onyx are also quarried. The stone that built much of the city ran out in Ixcotel, the original source, some years ago. It had a higher content of iron ore than the andesite in Magdalena and thus is more ochre and not as handsome or easy to work.
Onyx is another native stone, with major industrial production in Magdalena Tequisistlán, 48 Kms. northeast of Tehuantepec. Onyx chess sets, ashtrays, figurines and other small pieces are sold in stores in Oaxaca (CORAZON DE PIEDRA VERDE, Alcalá 403), and in shops and markets around the state and abroad. Quantities are available in Puerto Escondido, Huatulco and Mitla. Tequisquitlán's and Magdalena Etla's quarries also provide the blocks and wall facings employed in luxury buildings; many of the fancy hotels in Huatulco were constructed with this material.
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Volcanic stone also has a utilitarian use: "metates" (concave grinding platforms on four short leg) "manos" (the long, round tapered stones which do the grinding), and mortars and pestles called "molcajetes." The metates are mostly from San Sebastián Teitipac in the Tlacolula Valley and are sold in the markets of Oaxaca (Abastos), Tlacolula and Ocotlán. Sidewalk vendors paint the "metates" with gay, flowery scrolls as you watch. Serious housewives try them out, for this is a basic implement in daily use to grind corn for tortillas, far more important than the blender or even the microwave in North American kitchens. "Molcajetes" are smaller and easier to transport, for the non-native cook who likes his guacamole made fresh at home.
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